February 16, 2009My new headers are becoming impossible to keep quiet. I think it might be that the MAC copper gasket is too thin. My guy wants me to cover both sides of the gasket in silicoe sealant and re-tighten. I don''t like this idea because it seems sloppy. He also wants to loc-tite the header bolts. I also don''t like that, just in case I ever need to loosen them. I was thinking of trying a thicker softer header gasket. Any help would help!
February 17, 2009Stage 8 header bolts
Ill fix the link later just cut and paste for now.
February 17, 2009It''s very normal to have to snug them a little bit at a time while the gasket breaks in. At some point the gasket will harden enough to stop squishing.
The Stage 8''s are nice, but the problem they are fixing is the problem of heat and vibration allowing the bolts to back out. With new headers that''s usually not your problem.
Thread locker shouldn''t be necessary, but it might reduce the amount of times you have to snug up the header gaskets.
If you have a very small wrench (*or* any other tool) that can slide down the side of the engine and get on those header bolts, you should get in the habit of snugging them while they are still warm, until you notice that they don''t need it any more.
February 18, 2009Ok, so I ordered some stuff from Summit today:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO%2D67933&N=700 4294886211 4294908331 4294908282 4294925022 400405 115&autoview=sku
Hopefully this will solve my problem.
February 18, 2009I also took these pics of both sides of the MAC copper gasket. Any info?
February 18, 2009Damn, nice leaks.
February 18, 2009I really hope the new conforming gaskets will solve this problem. I am horrified to think that these headers may be problem. Someone suggested that MAC headers might not fit Edelbrock Performer heads.
February 19, 2009Bolts tight -> copper compresses (that''s why you have nice port marks all evenly around each hole in the gasket) -> bolt is now loose, and you have a leak.
Since you used Copper gaskets, the gasket did not ''blow out'' where the leak existed, like it would with a fiber *or* foil/fiber gasket - it just got sooty.
You could still use those gaskets just fine - just snug the bolts up periodically. Like you would for any other new header installation. Oops, I already said that.
February 19, 2009I tightened tose bolts as hard as I could. Still won''t be quiet. I''ll have to try my luck with the thicker gasket.
February 20, 2009Well, I will admit they are terrible to get a wrench on (for pretty much any V8 in any Mustang).
Sounds like the soot built up enough to where you couldn''t squish the copper enough more to squish the soot flat.
Make sure you snug up those new gaskets multiple times, often, when you first put it back together. Like, warm it up for a while, tighten. Then drive around the block, tighten. Make sure they are still tight when it cools down all the way too. After a few rounds of snugging they should stay.
I think that some shops just tighten the crap out of them, which is a bad idea with aluminum heads, unless you want to strip something eventually.
February 21, 2009Well that''''s the end of that fiasco! Those gaskets and split-lock bolts worked like a charm. Now I need to get that left over-axle pipe to stop rattling like a jack-hammer, and my exhaust drama is over!!
February 23, 2009Great!
The over the axle pipe is probably loose at one end *or* the other of the muffler (if the muffler is a clamp in) *or* it''s loose where the H-pipe meets the cat back. There''s a simple 2-bolt clamp on each of the exhaust pipes at that point, and it can be loose - it''s jut a simple ball and socket type joint, with a plates to hold the pipes together (the bolts go from one plate to the other, and the plates can''t slide off the ends of the exhaust pipes). I think they are 14mm at that point - and, this junction is under the ''middle'' of the car (about midway back along the door, maybe a foot *or* so under the edge of the car).